A Christmas wine and music mix
Last Christmas I gave you my rather dismissive opinion of the season’s musical fare. However, this year I’ve sought out a selection of less cloying festive tunes to drink with something special.
Kate Bush: December Will Be Magic Again
With a Methode Traditionnelle sparkling
A classic early Kate Bush track in which her high pitched vocals and piano pairs well with the crispness of sparkling wine, while its staccato elements and jingle of sleigh bells work with effervescence. Its full sound suggests a sparkling style with some richness, making the yeasty depth of a methode traditionnelle the best bubbly match. As it’s Christmas, I’d reach for a Champagne, such as the rich but elegant Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV.
Low: Just Like Christmas
With a barrel fermented Chardonnay
A sad loss to the music community this year came with the passing of Low’s singer-drummer, Mimi Parker. If you’re a Parker fan this might be a little too poignant for this festive season, but it’s one of the of the most sensitive songs channelling Christmas spirit. Its bass, drums and Mimi’s rich toned voice favour a concentrated and full bodied wine, while the sleigh bells invite a bright acidity. A ripe but crisp Chardonnay with some richness from barrel fermentation would hit the spot for me, such as the stunning Bilancia Tiratore Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay from New Zealand.
Beach Boys: Little Saint Nick
With a white Rhone blend
Reminiscent of their slightly earlier song, Little Deuce Coupe this may not be the Beach Boys finest work. However, it hits the right note if you’re looking for something upbeat, or summery for those of us celebrating Christmas at a warm time of year. A white blend immediately springs to mind, with the harmonies created by Rhone’s white varieties well suited. Viognier provides spicy perfumed notes and a viscous texture, Marsanne adds to body, and Roussanne crispness and florals. It doesn’t have to hail from France, as Hans Herzog’s “Mistral” Marlborough version works very nicely for me.
The Fall: Hark the Herald Angels Sing
With a structured red
A jangly-guitared post-punk version of the classic carol, in which singer Mark E Smith snarls his way through the song’s angelic proclamations. It’s a dark and slightly rough toned rendition, which calls for a robust red wine with some firm tannins and jangly acidity. Something like an Aglianico del Vulture from Italy’s volcanic Southern Basilicata region has the body, grip and crispness required. Choose a young example is you want to embrace the harshness of the combination, or conversely one that’s mellowed with age. The Elena Fucci “Titolo” Aglianico del Vulture would make a divine match.
Miles Davis: Blue Xmas (To Whom It May Concern)
With a rich soft fortified
Jazz trumpeter Miles Davis was not impressed when his record label asked him to contribute a festive track to its jazz Christmas album, Jingle Bell Swing. “What the f*** do they want me to play for them, White Christmas?” he allegedly complained, and delivered this cynical track. The full timbre of this darker jazz with Davis’ smooth trumpet would suit a similarly weighty and soft wine with complexity, given the track’s elaborate harmonies. My pick for this is a rich soft port, such as the intensely flavoured but mellow Sandeman 20 Year Old Tawny.
I hope these suggestions offer some inspiration for your own Christmas wine and music matching. Have a sensational break and see you for more Oenosthesia in 2023!
Tim Minchin: White Wine in the Sun
Leaving you with some seasonal Tim Minchin…