Sparkling wines and sleigh bells
... go remarkably well together. However, the fresh sparkling wine and music matches in this sonic stocking filler avoid stale Christmas songs for year-round relevance
If Santa was to make the perfect wine pairing with the tinkling of his sleigh bells, it would not be the rich ports and sherries traditionally left out for him on Christmas Eve. These might match his bassy ho ho hos (see Taste the Bass), but the high pitched and bright metallic resonance of the bells’ jingling calls for something far lighter, crisp, and fizzy. So pour him a sparkling wine for the journey, have one for yourself, and cue up some suitably effervescent tunes.
Now, I’m not a great lover of Christmas music. The only seasonal sounds likely to be heard in my household at this time of year are the Polish carols that spark personal nostalgia, and the disturbing reworkings of Christmas classics by V/VM: none of which go particularly well with sparkling wine, the focus of this post’s music matches. So, I’m not limiting my selections to festive sonic fodder, instead choosing from beyond the season. Some tracks do feature bells, but not those attached to reindeers.
In my next subscriber article, I’ll be sharing the full lowdown on the latest fascinating research on the effect of music on our appreciation of this most multisensorial of wines. In the meantime, here are some sparkling wine style and music matches to whet your appetite and inspire some party playlists.
Light and Fresh
The crisp acidity that characterises sparkling wines has an affinity with higher pitches, which should ideally be dominant in the music with which they’re paired.
THE WINE: Continental Platter Prosecco Victoria, Australia 2021
As with most Italian Proseccos, this Australian version made with the same Glera grape, is all about fresh and uncomplicated drinking. It’s dry and light with crunchy apple and juicy lemon fruit perfumed with attractive honeysuckle florals.
THE MUSIC MATCH: Stereolab – Canned Candies
This track from avant-pop band, Stereolab, carries the freshness in its high melodies played on bells, strings, and in the female vocals. Its laid back jazzy lounge style also suits the light intensity and mood of this wine. The bright timbre of the bells and sharper metallic tone of cymbals emphasise the effervescence; as do the syncopated rhythms, which have a fairly fast tempo that also seems to suit sparkling wines.
Richer Methode Traditionelle
The richness derived from making sparkling wines using the “methode traditionnelle” means these styles harmonise with fuller timbres, as well as the musical features of high pitches, fast tempo, and bright tones.
THE WINE: Cloudy Bay Pelorus Vintage Marlborough, New Zealand 2012
An elegant vintage sparkling blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with pure white peach fruit, bright lemony acidity, and an attractive edge of minerality. Made using the methode traditionnelle, this has seen it develop richness, complexity, and nutty praline and brioche notes from close to a decade spent in bottle on its yeast lees.
THE MUSIC MATCH: Jansen Barbieri – Toys
This ambient electronic track from the album, Worlds in a Small Room, was recorded as part of a soundtrack for a documentary about space travel, but has a gravitational lightness that also makes it a great accompaniment for a fine methode traditionnelle like the Pelorus. The bright timbred, delicate and fast bell-like sounds that drive this piece of music create a sonic effervescence that echoes the wine’s fine mousse. There’s also ebullient reinforcement from a bubbling lower synthesizer line. Finally, attention is drawn to waves of yeasty richness through the fullness of the music’s expansive sustained chords.
Blanc de Blancs Champagne
The purity, finesse, and racy character of fine Chardonnay-based Champagne calls for fast, higher pitched, and pure toned music.
THE WINE: Paul Launois Monochrome #1 Grand Cru Extra Brut Champagne NV
This ultra-dry Blanc de Blancs from an impressive new grower label in the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is pure and poised with notes of crisp apple, lemon, and almond paste. It’s propelled by a thrilling line of acidity that’s underpinned by an intense flinty minerality.
THE MUSIC MATCH: Recomposed by Max Richter: Vivaldi, The Four Seasons, Spring 1
Such a high energy and fine acid focused sparkling wine needs similarly spirited and high toned musical accompaniment. This neo-classical remix of part of a baroque concerto provides both. Its short and quick repeated notes on the violins echo the liveliness of the mousse in the mouth. Their bright and slightly sharp-edged timbre resonates with both the purity of the Champagne’s fruit and minerality, and their high pitch with its acidity. There’s also a delicacy and spaciousness in this particular section of the work that means the music doesn’t overwhelm the subtleties of the wine. However, if you want to really ramp the excitement, try it with the album’s track, Summer 3, for an audio-gustatory white knuckle ride, which may push things a little too far for some!
These matches are made using a mixture of evidence from formal studies and my own anecdotal observations. To avoid visual influence, close your eyes or look into a neutral space when you listen to the music while tasting the wine.